Gates of Istanbul- name inspiration

When I began this blog, I was stumped as to what to call it. Gates of Istanbul is actually a song by new age artist Loreena McKennitt. When I was in Istanbul last year I heard this song and it so beautifully captures the mysticism, mystery and wonder of the city for me, that it was befitting my blog.

Loreena McKennitt is a Canadian who's music is inspired by Celtic and Middle Eastern music, which can seem like an odd combination, though they are quite similar. Apparently, the Moors were responsible for introducing Arabic music to the Celts.
A little off topic, but I thought it was interesting to note!

And which carvansaray to rest your weary self?

This is where I tell you my favorite hotels in Istanbul, and some which I have not had the pleasure of staying at, but which have come highly recommended. The word 'carvansaray' denotes lodging along the ancient Silk Routes where merchants would rest overnight, eat and feed their animals. There are plenty in Turkey to visit, non-functioning of course, but none remaining in Istanbul today that I know of. In the place of the carvansarais of yesteryear are now the world's major hotel chains including the first W Hotel to have opened in Europe, in the converted servants quarters of the Dolmabache Place, the last palace of the Ottoman sultans.

Istanbul has such a variety of hotels to choose from ranging in size, location and price. There really is something for everybody. Travelers with limited time who prefer to be close to major attractions in the Sultanahmet, 'the old city' should consider Yesil Ev- www.yesilev.com.tr. Quaint and at the foot of the monumental Hagia Sofia museum, this hotel is perfect for the avid sightseer.

For traditionalists who prefer the 'tried and true' large chain hotels, both the Swissotel and Hyatt are safe bets. The Hyatt chain recently opened a more upscale Park Hyatt, in Istanbul in the conveniently located Nisantasi neighborhood. Convenient for business and for travelers who want to be more centrally located. Istanbul also boasts two Four Seasons Hotels, one in a former prison in the old city (I, who believe in ghosts, would be a little wary of staying there!) the other on right on the water.

The city has a plethora of beautiful, unique luxury boutique hotels as well. Aija- www.aijahotel.com- and Sumahan-www.sumahan.com are two that I like. Both date back to the 1800s and are along the water on the Asian side of the Bosphorous. The former is a traditional Ottoman white-washed mansion, a summer residence of aristocracy with just 15 rooms, the latter with 20 rooms, is a converted alcohol factory.

But perhaps the best known and most spectacular hotel is the Ciragan Palace Hotel. Often ranked as one of Europe's top hotels, the Ciragan is a former Ottoman palace, also on the water. Is a popular site for weddings, both indoor and outdoor, as the views are some of the best the city has to offer and the ballrooms are grandiose and can hold 600+ people- and Turks certainly like big weddings! Sometimes one can find a reduced rate here, but the rack rate is approximately $600/ night.

Veranda Does Istanbul

In reading Veranda magazine, admittedly randomly as it's not on my usual reading list, I learned that the magazine hosts a Designer Tour to Istanbul with this being the third year of the exclusive trip. Pretty cool if you are into design and exploring exotic lands. The magazine dubs the trip an 'opportunity to sample the best of the best in a unique city where Euro-sensibilites and Asian exoticism meld.'

The trip takes place September 20-25 and participants have an opportunity to discover Istanbul with select editors from the magazine taking in important architectural sites, cruising up the Bosphorus, enjoying a private dinner at the home of famed Turkish designer Serdar Gurgun and experiencing the studios of award winning designers Autobahn. They designed some of the coolest cafes and restaurant/clubs in the city such as the chain House Cafe- a perfected version of Le Pain Quotidien and much hipper. But more on that later, as I believe the deserve their very own posts!

The tour also boasts a luncheon with Gurhan, a famous Turkish jeweler who's had great success selling his beautiful hammered gold pieces in the US. The added benefit of going all the way to Istanbul is that you can find pieces like his extensively throughout the Grand Bazaar for considerably less, allowing you to spend what you've saved on other delights the city has to offer.

Dining in Beyoglu

Istanbul has tons of yummy restaurants ranging in price, hip quotient and cuisines from around the world. Turkish food by nature is very diverse thanks to the various cultures that made up the Ottoman Empire such as Greek, Circassian, Persian, Armenian- and that's just the tip of the iceberg! The New York Times Travel section, in keeping the tradition of consistently featuring the city, featured Istanbul restaurants in this past weekend's edition. They feature two restaurants in the Beyoglu district of the city, one high end and flashy called Mimolett, and the other, Antochia, smaller and quaint on a quiet backstreet.

I love going out in Beyoglu. The heavy concentration of restaurants, bars and clubs lining the narrow, winding streets make this Istanbul's most vibrant neighborhood and the best place to head in search of a fun night out. When I'm in town I love to go to Nu Teras (Mesrutiyet Caddesi 14 Istanbul, Turkey +90-212-245-6070.) An outdoor restaurant on the roof of an apartment building, Nu Teras offers sweeping views of the city, particularly of the Golden Horn, the body of water which separates what is often referred to as the old city, from the the rest of Istanbul. At the same time, the venue has a bar complete with DJ making it a one-stop-shop for an ideal, sexy and fun night out.

2010 European Capital of Culture

This year Istanbul is the 2010 European Capital of Culture. I wanted to share
this video that was created in honor of this distinction. It's almost too touristic for my taste, but it gives a great visual display of the city and the key 'must see sites' including the Hagia Sofia museum. A church constructed in 6th Century during the reign of Emperor Justinian, it was the largest cathedral in the world for 1000 years. When Istanbul was conquered by the Ottomans in 1453 it was converted to a mosque. Today it is one of the rare places in the world where one can see mosaics of Christian figures and Islamic texts and symbols side by side. Other important sites that are a 'must see' and included in this video are the Topkapi Palace, the first palace of the Ottoman Sultans, The Dolmabache Palace, the Grand Bazaar and the Blue Mosque.

The Grand Bazaar

One of Istanbul's best-known attractions is the Grand Bazaar. Built in 1461, it is often referred to as 'the world's first shopping mall', which still today offers a bevy of unique treasures ranging from jewelry to leather goods, rugs, ceramics, silver and copperwares, handmade soaps and textiles amongst other things. I pay a visit to the Grand Bazaar every time I am in Istanbul and I've amassed a list of favorite shops, compiled over several years, which in and of itself is a daunting task, since the place boasts 5,000+ shops!

I never fail to pay a visit to Dervis, or Dervish in English (Kesciler Caddesi No.33-35), to pick up hand-woven and hand-dyed silk/ wool blend scarves in a bevy of colors. These make excellent gifts to bring back home as they are easy and light to carry and inexpensive, at about $30 US. Proprietors brothers Taner and Tayfun Utkan work with artisans from all over Turkey to procure unique textiles,and ethnic products including one-of-a-kind items such as caftans from bridal dowries, as well as 'peshtemals', the thin, super absorbant towels used at the Turkish baths. www.dervis.com

Other favorites include: Koc leather shop(Kürkçüler Çarşısı 22-46), found in the leather bazaar within the Grand Bazaar(the entire complex is split into sections based on product categories.) Turkish leather goods are know for their supreme quality and the softness of the leather. Koc carries amazing leather and suede jackets, as well as warm, light sheepskin coats for half the price of those of comprable quality here in the US. Ask for Osman- he speaks six, maybe eight languages including Japanese! Tombak (Koloncular Sok., 12) is wonderful for copper and other metalwares such as candleabras, teapots and hookahs so prevalent in the decor of Turkish homes. The man to see there is Selcuk Bayar. Another favorite gem of a shop is that of jeweler Selcuk Ipek. Selcuk creates some of the most beautiful and unique evil eyes to be found in the world. Hand-crafted from a variety of colored stones including turquoise, coral, onyx, lapis, opal and tiger's eye, this artisan produces bracelets consisting of a flat eye surrounded in 18kt hammered gold, attached to a leather cord. These became very fashionable amongst Istanbul's trendsetters who wear several simultaneously. I have three, which worn together, are quite striking. I'd heard that Barney's even came calling, expressing an interest in carrying them, but Mr. Ipek, citing that because each one takes a fair amount of time to create, declined, as maintaining the quality and integrity of his creations takes precedence. Located in a corner of the maze-like Bedesten, the innermost, oldest, original part of the bazaar, Selcuk is really a hidden gem. Good luck finding it- you'll most probably need to ask as you go!

Istanbul- where East meets West, literally and figuratively

Istanbul is a city of contrasts and paradoxes, where East meets West, not only because it is where the continents of Europe and Asia come together, but because it is also a unique place where ancient collides with modern, constantly and instantly. In Istanbul one sees glass skyscrapers built next to ornate mosques, that are centuries old. Devout Muslim women, wearing headscarves, and increasingly now burkas, stroll down streets alongside women in tight skirts and platform heels. Istanbul's young generation cross seemingly and seamlessly from one world to another as they leave house music clubs at 5am to hear the muezzins' first call to prayer wafting from the mosques.

I've had a love/ hate relationship with this mystical city for most of my life. As a child I wanted only to distance myself from this strange, far off metropolis where I was born, wanting so desperately to fit in in the US, my adoptive homeland. But as I grew older and began to appreciate the rich history, the vibrant culture and the vitality of this city, always in flux, thirsting for and offering newness, I fell in love with Istanbul.

Apparently, I'm not the only one. I am astounded and proud of how often The New York Times has featured Istanbul in its Travel section, and for this reason, along with the fact that I am always asked where to go, what to do, and where to shop when in Istanbul, I've decided to document my favorite things and places, with the goal of creating a blueprint for the ideal long weekend in this extraordinary city.