The Grand Bazaar

One of Istanbul's best-known attractions is the Grand Bazaar. Built in 1461, it is often referred to as 'the world's first shopping mall', which still today offers a bevy of unique treasures ranging from jewelry to leather goods, rugs, ceramics, silver and copperwares, handmade soaps and textiles amongst other things. I pay a visit to the Grand Bazaar every time I am in Istanbul and I've amassed a list of favorite shops, compiled over several years, which in and of itself is a daunting task, since the place boasts 5,000+ shops!

I never fail to pay a visit to Dervis, or Dervish in English (Kesciler Caddesi No.33-35), to pick up hand-woven and hand-dyed silk/ wool blend scarves in a bevy of colors. These make excellent gifts to bring back home as they are easy and light to carry and inexpensive, at about $30 US. Proprietors brothers Taner and Tayfun Utkan work with artisans from all over Turkey to procure unique textiles,and ethnic products including one-of-a-kind items such as caftans from bridal dowries, as well as 'peshtemals', the thin, super absorbant towels used at the Turkish baths. www.dervis.com

Other favorites include: Koc leather shop(Kürkçüler Çarşısı 22-46), found in the leather bazaar within the Grand Bazaar(the entire complex is split into sections based on product categories.) Turkish leather goods are know for their supreme quality and the softness of the leather. Koc carries amazing leather and suede jackets, as well as warm, light sheepskin coats for half the price of those of comprable quality here in the US. Ask for Osman- he speaks six, maybe eight languages including Japanese! Tombak (Koloncular Sok., 12) is wonderful for copper and other metalwares such as candleabras, teapots and hookahs so prevalent in the decor of Turkish homes. The man to see there is Selcuk Bayar. Another favorite gem of a shop is that of jeweler Selcuk Ipek. Selcuk creates some of the most beautiful and unique evil eyes to be found in the world. Hand-crafted from a variety of colored stones including turquoise, coral, onyx, lapis, opal and tiger's eye, this artisan produces bracelets consisting of a flat eye surrounded in 18kt hammered gold, attached to a leather cord. These became very fashionable amongst Istanbul's trendsetters who wear several simultaneously. I have three, which worn together, are quite striking. I'd heard that Barney's even came calling, expressing an interest in carrying them, but Mr. Ipek, citing that because each one takes a fair amount of time to create, declined, as maintaining the quality and integrity of his creations takes precedence. Located in a corner of the maze-like Bedesten, the innermost, oldest, original part of the bazaar, Selcuk is really a hidden gem. Good luck finding it- you'll most probably need to ask as you go!