And which carvansaray to rest your weary self?

This is where I tell you my favorite hotels in Istanbul, and some which I have not had the pleasure of staying at, but which have come highly recommended. The word 'carvansaray' denotes lodging along the ancient Silk Routes where merchants would rest overnight, eat and feed their animals. There are plenty in Turkey to visit, non-functioning of course, but none remaining in Istanbul today that I know of. In the place of the carvansarais of yesteryear are now the world's major hotel chains including the first W Hotel to have opened in Europe, in the converted servants quarters of the Dolmabache Place, the last palace of the Ottoman sultans.

Istanbul has such a variety of hotels to choose from ranging in size, location and price. There really is something for everybody. Travelers with limited time who prefer to be close to major attractions in the Sultanahmet, 'the old city' should consider Yesil Ev- www.yesilev.com.tr. Quaint and at the foot of the monumental Hagia Sofia museum, this hotel is perfect for the avid sightseer.

For traditionalists who prefer the 'tried and true' large chain hotels, both the Swissotel and Hyatt are safe bets. The Hyatt chain recently opened a more upscale Park Hyatt, in Istanbul in the conveniently located Nisantasi neighborhood. Convenient for business and for travelers who want to be more centrally located. Istanbul also boasts two Four Seasons Hotels, one in a former prison in the old city (I, who believe in ghosts, would be a little wary of staying there!) the other on right on the water.

The city has a plethora of beautiful, unique luxury boutique hotels as well. Aija- www.aijahotel.com- and Sumahan-www.sumahan.com are two that I like. Both date back to the 1800s and are along the water on the Asian side of the Bosphorous. The former is a traditional Ottoman white-washed mansion, a summer residence of aristocracy with just 15 rooms, the latter with 20 rooms, is a converted alcohol factory.

But perhaps the best known and most spectacular hotel is the Ciragan Palace Hotel. Often ranked as one of Europe's top hotels, the Ciragan is a former Ottoman palace, also on the water. Is a popular site for weddings, both indoor and outdoor, as the views are some of the best the city has to offer and the ballrooms are grandiose and can hold 600+ people- and Turks certainly like big weddings! Sometimes one can find a reduced rate here, but the rack rate is approximately $600/ night.