Dining in Beyoglu

Istanbul has tons of yummy restaurants ranging in price, hip quotient and cuisines from around the world. Turkish food by nature is very diverse thanks to the various cultures that made up the Ottoman Empire such as Greek, Circassian, Persian, Armenian- and that's just the tip of the iceberg! The New York Times Travel section, in keeping the tradition of consistently featuring the city, featured Istanbul restaurants in this past weekend's edition. They feature two restaurants in the Beyoglu district of the city, one high end and flashy called Mimolett, and the other, Antochia, smaller and quaint on a quiet backstreet.

I love going out in Beyoglu. The heavy concentration of restaurants, bars and clubs lining the narrow, winding streets make this Istanbul's most vibrant neighborhood and the best place to head in search of a fun night out. When I'm in town I love to go to Nu Teras (Mesrutiyet Caddesi 14 Istanbul, Turkey +90-212-245-6070.) An outdoor restaurant on the roof of an apartment building, Nu Teras offers sweeping views of the city, particularly of the Golden Horn, the body of water which separates what is often referred to as the old city, from the the rest of Istanbul. At the same time, the venue has a bar complete with DJ making it a one-stop-shop for an ideal, sexy and fun night out.

2010 European Capital of Culture

This year Istanbul is the 2010 European Capital of Culture. I wanted to share
this video that was created in honor of this distinction. It's almost too touristic for my taste, but it gives a great visual display of the city and the key 'must see sites' including the Hagia Sofia museum. A church constructed in 6th Century during the reign of Emperor Justinian, it was the largest cathedral in the world for 1000 years. When Istanbul was conquered by the Ottomans in 1453 it was converted to a mosque. Today it is one of the rare places in the world where one can see mosaics of Christian figures and Islamic texts and symbols side by side. Other important sites that are a 'must see' and included in this video are the Topkapi Palace, the first palace of the Ottoman Sultans, The Dolmabache Palace, the Grand Bazaar and the Blue Mosque.

The Grand Bazaar

One of Istanbul's best-known attractions is the Grand Bazaar. Built in 1461, it is often referred to as 'the world's first shopping mall', which still today offers a bevy of unique treasures ranging from jewelry to leather goods, rugs, ceramics, silver and copperwares, handmade soaps and textiles amongst other things. I pay a visit to the Grand Bazaar every time I am in Istanbul and I've amassed a list of favorite shops, compiled over several years, which in and of itself is a daunting task, since the place boasts 5,000+ shops!

I never fail to pay a visit to Dervis, or Dervish in English (Kesciler Caddesi No.33-35), to pick up hand-woven and hand-dyed silk/ wool blend scarves in a bevy of colors. These make excellent gifts to bring back home as they are easy and light to carry and inexpensive, at about $30 US. Proprietors brothers Taner and Tayfun Utkan work with artisans from all over Turkey to procure unique textiles,and ethnic products including one-of-a-kind items such as caftans from bridal dowries, as well as 'peshtemals', the thin, super absorbant towels used at the Turkish baths. www.dervis.com

Other favorites include: Koc leather shop(Kürkçüler Çarşısı 22-46), found in the leather bazaar within the Grand Bazaar(the entire complex is split into sections based on product categories.) Turkish leather goods are know for their supreme quality and the softness of the leather. Koc carries amazing leather and suede jackets, as well as warm, light sheepskin coats for half the price of those of comprable quality here in the US. Ask for Osman- he speaks six, maybe eight languages including Japanese! Tombak (Koloncular Sok., 12) is wonderful for copper and other metalwares such as candleabras, teapots and hookahs so prevalent in the decor of Turkish homes. The man to see there is Selcuk Bayar. Another favorite gem of a shop is that of jeweler Selcuk Ipek. Selcuk creates some of the most beautiful and unique evil eyes to be found in the world. Hand-crafted from a variety of colored stones including turquoise, coral, onyx, lapis, opal and tiger's eye, this artisan produces bracelets consisting of a flat eye surrounded in 18kt hammered gold, attached to a leather cord. These became very fashionable amongst Istanbul's trendsetters who wear several simultaneously. I have three, which worn together, are quite striking. I'd heard that Barney's even came calling, expressing an interest in carrying them, but Mr. Ipek, citing that because each one takes a fair amount of time to create, declined, as maintaining the quality and integrity of his creations takes precedence. Located in a corner of the maze-like Bedesten, the innermost, oldest, original part of the bazaar, Selcuk is really a hidden gem. Good luck finding it- you'll most probably need to ask as you go!

Istanbul- where East meets West, literally and figuratively

Istanbul is a city of contrasts and paradoxes, where East meets West, not only because it is where the continents of Europe and Asia come together, but because it is also a unique place where ancient collides with modern, constantly and instantly. In Istanbul one sees glass skyscrapers built next to ornate mosques, that are centuries old. Devout Muslim women, wearing headscarves, and increasingly now burkas, stroll down streets alongside women in tight skirts and platform heels. Istanbul's young generation cross seemingly and seamlessly from one world to another as they leave house music clubs at 5am to hear the muezzins' first call to prayer wafting from the mosques.

I've had a love/ hate relationship with this mystical city for most of my life. As a child I wanted only to distance myself from this strange, far off metropolis where I was born, wanting so desperately to fit in in the US, my adoptive homeland. But as I grew older and began to appreciate the rich history, the vibrant culture and the vitality of this city, always in flux, thirsting for and offering newness, I fell in love with Istanbul.

Apparently, I'm not the only one. I am astounded and proud of how often The New York Times has featured Istanbul in its Travel section, and for this reason, along with the fact that I am always asked where to go, what to do, and where to shop when in Istanbul, I've decided to document my favorite things and places, with the goal of creating a blueprint for the ideal long weekend in this extraordinary city.